Friday 15 February 2013

An ancient grove of the Cholas

There are scores of  monuments and places of religious and  historical interest in and around Bangalore. Some of them are of heritage value such as the old fort of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan near City Market in Bangalore, the Tipu Sultan palace and  the fort at Devanahalli to name a few.
But do you really think that the heritage of a place is only restricted to buildings. It also applies to other things such as parks and gardens. Of course, I am not for a moment talking about the magnificent Lalbagh here but another garden that is much more older and much more farther from Bangalore.
The trees in this garden were planted by the Chloas when they ruled over this part of Karnataka. This was sometime in the 10th century and early part of the eleventh century when the Cholas were one of the most powerful dynasties to rule over south India. This was the time when the Gangas were ruling over Talakad, Chalukyas over Badami and surrounding areas, Hoysalas over Belur, Halebidu and south Karnataka.
The Rashtrakutas too were at war with the Cholas and they had on several occasions been joined by the Gangas in battling Cholas.  Bangalore and surrounding areas were part of the Chola Empire and this was more of a forest than the city that we know of now as Bangalore.
Since much of the area was forested and the soil very fertile, the Cholas planted a grove that has withstood the vagaries of Nature and is still standing today.
This is the tamarind grove of Nallur near Devanahalli, which today boasts of  having the international airport located around its periphery.
Botanists believe that this was Devara Laadu or sacred grove where nobody was allowed to cut trees. Hence, the grove has stood the test of time and today it has several trees which go back to centuries.
Nallur is about 40 kilometres from Bangalore and it is near to Devanahalli. The tamarind grove here is set on a fairly large extent of land. There is a beautiful but ruined temple of Chennekeshava within the grove.
The small village of Nallur is nearby but nothing much remains of the once provincial capital of the Cholas. Once a prosperous trading town, there is nothing left of  the Chola presence except the grove and a few ruined temples.
Many of the trees in the grove are 1000 years or more in age. Some of the trees are believed to have been planted during the period of  Rajendra Chola I.
Though the Chola dynasty vanished, the trees they planted here have weathered storms, changes in climate, changing political equations and even urbanization to survive.
In all, there are 397 trees and each of them have survived centuries and each has its own tale to tell. The grove is in a 30 acre land and it is now under the care of the Forest Department.
Over the centuries,  the trunks have withered and twisted themselves into different shapes. Some of them have again gone back to the earth and deeply embedded themselves again. This kind of roots or trunks growing downwards and boring into the earth is generally unknown for a Tamarind tree. It is the job of the Ficus tree to develop prop roost and sucker roots for that is what they are and not a Tamarind tree.
Another unexplainable phenomenon is that new roots have sprung up from dead roots. One tree with a large trunk was struck by lightning 70 years ago and it split into two. Over the years, villagers made a path between the two halves. Both halves have now become independent trees and bear fruit too.
Another rare case is of a trunk root from which shoots have sprung up and they have become fruit-bearing trees. They are not independent but have sprung up from the mother tree. No wonder, these rare spectacles has botanists scratching their head for a suitable answer.
The Tamarind fruit is an unusual red here. This yet again is nothing short of a miracle. A tree planted centuries ago again bearing fruit. The Chennakeshava Temple tells us that there was worship in ancient times during mornings. Krishna was perhaps the main deity. At nights, the tamarind trees played hosts to ghosts and demons perhaps and this could be the reason for their longevity.
The grove has been declared as a Biodiversity Heritage site by the Karnataka Biodiversity Board in 2007.
Do you want to know  the age of the youngest tree. Eight four years. And the oldest : nearly 1,000. This is truly astounding as botanists generally say that a life span of a tamarind tree is 400 to 500 years and not more.   
Apart from the trees, the grove is also home to several species of birds. A few years ago, more than one hundred species were recorded. More than 20 species of butterflies too were recorded, including southern birdwing, common Cerulean, Tip Crimson, Grass jewel and Danald Eggfly.  
The word Tamarind is derived from the Latin word Tamarindus. The Persian name for this tree, which is widely prevalent in tropical countries, is Tamar-i-Hind meaning Indian Date.
By the way, Dakar is the capital of  the African nation of Senegal. Dakar, locally means tamarind.
The leaves are eaten by musicians  to improve their voices. There is a tamarind tree adjacent to the Brindavana of  Raghuttama Theertha (this is so as Krishna loved this tree) and it is also depicted on the tomb of  Tansen in Gwalior.
Nallur is in Devanahalli taluk. It is on the road from Devanahalli to Sulibele. Nandi Hills is just across Nallur. So the next time you plan a visit to the Hills, do not forget the cool shade of the Tamarind tree
The Chennakeshava Temple tells us that there was worship in ancient times during mornings. Krishna was perhaps the main deity. At nights, the tamarind trees played hosts to ghosts and demons perhaps and this could be the reason for their longevity.
The grove has been declared as a Biodiversity Heritage site by the Karnataka Biodiversity Board in 2007.
Do you want to know the age of the youngest tree. Eight four years. And the oldest : nearly 1,000. This is truly astounding as tamarind trees are known to have a life cycle of 400 to 500 years.

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